Lace Trimming Industry

Bobbin Lace

Bobbin lace is made from multiple threads, each wound on separate bobbins. The design (pricking) of pin-holes is marked on a stiff card which is tied to a firm pillow packed with straw (nowadays a piece of polystyrene is often used). Though more threads can be added (or removed) as the design progresses, few threads are fixed at the beginning of the pattern. Basically, all the stitches involve two pairs of bobbins, i.e. four threads. Once the stitches are made, they are held in such a position that the pins are pushed through the pin-holes, in the pricking, into the pillow. The pattern motifs, which can be outlined with a gimp (a thicker thread), are usually worked in cloth stitch (forming areas resembling woven cloth) or half stitch (giving a more open effect), but more elaborate filling stitches are also used.
There are two ways in which such bobbin laces are made. One is a continuous process of making straight laces, where the motifs and ground of meshes or bars are made in one continuous process. Second is a process of making part laces, where the motifs are made separately and then joined with bars or a mesh ground. Once the lace is finished it is released from the pattern by removing the pins.

Based on their place of origin, the different styles of lace are named and the traditional English bobbin laces described below are no exception.
Honiton Lace

Named after the town in Devon, which was the center of a lace-making area, Honiton lace is a part lace traditionally made with very fine thread. A major advantage of part lace at the time when hand-made lace was produced commercially was that the various motifs could be made by different lace makers. This meant that large items like shawls and smaller items like collars, all could be finished faster. In contrast, the lace makers today, prefer working on their own and making separate motifs which are complete in themselves.

Bedfordshire Lace

Bedfordshire Lace was made not only in Bedfordshire, but also in other counties of East Midlands' lace making areas like Buckinghamshire and Northamptonshire. Created around the middle of the 19th century and inspired by the 17th century laces, this lace later developed features of its own. Some of the delicate ones, especially those designed by Thomas Lester, were also borrowed from Honiton lace. Technically, it is a straight lace and the pattern motifs are usually joined with bars of plaited threads.

Bucks Point Lace

Bucks Point Lace, one of the East Midlands laces, was made all over the area and not just in Buckinghamshire. Created in the 18th century, it is an English version of a type of mesh-grounded lace. Traditionally made with fine thread (not as fine as that used for Honiton lace), it is a straight lace in which pattern motifs are often outlined with a thicker gimp thread.

Torchon Lace

Torchon Lace is an exception to the rule about names. Surprisingly, the French word Torchon means a duster! It was not regarded as a very fashionable lace in the 18th and 19th centuries; hence was given a rather pejorative name. In Britain, Torchon is often the first bobbin lace learnt, but there is nothing second-rate about it today. It is a straight lace with a type of mesh ground different from that found in Bucks Point.

Needle Lace

Needle laces have the same basic techniques for all types of laces. The design is drawn on a parchment (nowadays architect's linen) and this is fastened to a backing fabric. Foundation threads are then couched down along the lines of the design with threads which pass through the pattern and underlying fabric. The design motifs are then filled with rows of buttonhole stitches, each end of the row being linked to the foundation thread. The motifs are then joined with short bars or a mesh ground of buttonhole stitches. The motifs can be also embellished by attaching extra threads to the outlines of the motifs. This raised outline (cordonnet) can be decorated with picots (decorative loops) as well. Once the lace is finished it is released from the pattern by cutting the threads which couched down the foundation threads.

As in the case of bobbin lace, needle laces are often named after the place where they were first made, like Venetian Gros Point and Alen�on are perhaps the best known. Each type of lace has its distinctive features. Today's needle lace often adopts techniques from different styles and tries to create something distinct.