ACtrafficengr
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Is this a public road? If so, use an approved design as per your state's/province's department of transportation. If not, you may want to use a standard design anyway, for the following reasons:
[ul]
[li] Standardized parts will make repair easier[/li]
[li] Less liability should someone be injured in a crash with the rail[/li]
[li]Predesigned details for posts in rock[/li]
[/ul]
I think NYSDOT will drill a hole and backfill around the post with compacted gravel. If the rock is at the surface and sound enough, you might be able to treat it like a retaining wall, with heavy steel bridge rail posts bolted to anchors.
Just remember that eventually, you will have to replace posts, due to crash damage or rot.
"...students of traffic are beginning to realize the false economy of mechanically controlled traffic, and hand work by trained officers will again prevail." - Wm. Phelps Eno, ca.
"I'm searching for the questions, so my answers will make sense." - Stephen Brust
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PEinc
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Nice, AC
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bridgebuster
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Hopefully this link still works. It's the FHWA standards for steel-backed timber guard/guide (whatever the case)rail
AC - NYSDOT doesn't have any standards for timber railing. A steel-backed timber median was recently used on a NYSDOT project for historic reasons. The design was a modified version of FHWA.
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ACtrafficengr
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Actually, there is an item number for Ironwood (tm) rail. Also, back when I worked for the Department, we spec'd ConnDOT's steel backed timber rail in a job where the Hutch Pkwy becomes the Merritt.
The original poster was talking about timber posts, and said nothing about the rail elements. NYSDOT does have a wood post version of heavy post blocked out W-beam.
"...students of traffic are beginning to realize the false economy of mechanically controlled traffic, and hand work by trained officers will again prevail." - Wm. Phelps Eno, ca.
"I'm searching for the questions, so my answers will make sense." - Stephen Brust
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bridgebuster
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Timber guiderail is a special spec not a standsard one. I couldn't find timber posts in the standard sheets; I was looking in Section 606. Could it be elsewhere?
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I used some around my waterer and in my corral. I think it is too expensive for long stretches but works great in high pressure areas especially where you want to limit sight outside like in a corral. Railroad ties make good posts for guard rail in these type areas. I have also used pole sections. Using guardrail is MUCH easier if you get the posts in the right spots to line up with the prepunched standard 6'-3" spaced holes in the guardrail and are near the correct height
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I started with treated pine on 8ft centers then switched to guardrail around my waterer. Would have been much easier and neater to start with guardrail in mind. Good luck.
Jim at Dawn
Anda Product Page
The guard rail is prepunched for 3/4" fasteners. I used a 1/2" ships auger, and galvanized flat washers and 1/2" galvanized (don't use just plated ) carriage bolts. There is "real" guard rail then there is what seems to be imported much lighter weight, poorly galvanized "imitation" guard rail much cheaper. My suggestion is if you are going to do it get the real thing.
Edited by Jim 8/5/ 23:31
Several years ago I found a good supply of tri-rail (20" wide ) and bought a semi load of it. Worth the money cause it was taken down in a hurry with a chopsaw -- one end cut off - but that end was still bolted onto the next piece, so I got a tremendous supply of galvanized bolts as well. Unbolt the cut off end, take it to the other end, overlap it a bit and weld it back on. Cattle don't seem to mind.
Put up on the original I-beam posts. 2 -- 5'6" guardrail posts welded together end to end. Use three of these rails spaced just wide enough to get your foot through in case you need to climb over. Pretty good windbreak in bitter cold weather as well.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of Highway Guardrail Posts. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
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