The name surface protection film says it all - it is designed to protect critical surfaces from scratches, damage, scuffs, UV exposure, or dirt and contamination. Popular and successful because of its strength and durability, the protective film is actually a type of tape. It is made from layers of film bonded together to form a barrier that protects everything from the glass of a building to anything else that needs protection under construction. It is, for example, the shrink-wrapped plastic that is applied to new refrigerators and is used as a roll of material to cover and protect the surfaces of manufactured parts, particularly in the automotive industry. It is widely used by manufacturers of metal and plastic sheets. They are also scratch resistant and help to reduce the penetration of sunlight and UV rays.
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To ensure you get the right protective film for your application, make sure and ask these questions.
Will the film be applied to a rough or smooth surface? Rougher surfaces have a larger surface area and require a thicker adhesive.
Is the surface area clean and dry? Dirty application conditions may produce unacceptable results. Embedded material and unwanted debris can adversely affect the performance of the protective film.
Will the surface be painted or coated? There may be chemical reactions between the adhesive and the coating, especially the longer they are in contact with each other.
What types of surfaces need protection? Whether wood, stone, metal, glass, plastic or ceramic; these surfaces require completely different adhesives to function successfully.
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Will the film be exposed to high temperatures? Most rubber-based adhesives cannot withstand temperatures above 150°F. Acrylic adhesives are effective at temperatures up to 350°F, while silicone adhesives are effective at temperatures up to 500°F.
Will this film be used outdoors? If so, how long will it take? Over time, the sun's UV rays will damage the adhesive. Not only will the protective film turn yellow, but it will also become hard and brittle, thus failing. The length of time the film is exposed to the elements will determine how much UV protection it needs.
What is the scope of the project? Do you need to protect windows with PVC film or do you need to provide a moisture and humidity barrier on a flat surface where LDPE (low density polyethylene) film is the answer?
Will the film be used for safety or security applications? In any project, safety comes first. Is the purpose of the film to protect workers from broken glass or to deter intruders?
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How long will the film take to adhere to the surface? If this is a long-term job, some additional components may need to be added to ensure that the surface adheres to the film for the length of time you need it to remain strong.
Will storage and transport affect the film? Your crew may be better able to withstand extreme weather than your material! Consider transporting them to the job site and subsequent storage of the material to avoid compromising effectiveness. Store films and tapes in a cool, dry place.
Once applied to a clean, dry surface, the protective film will effectively prevent 'damage' to that surface. Although very versatile, use the wrong protective film for the job and you will jeopardise your timeline and always the dreaded budget overrun.
The name surface protection film kind of says it all — it’s designed to protect critical surfaces from scratching, marring, abrasions, UV exposure, or dirt and contamination. Popular and successful due to its strength and durability, protective film is actually an adhesive tape. It’s produced from thin film layers bonded together to create a barrier, guarding everything from a building’s glass to anything else requiring under-construction protection. For example, It’s the shrink-wrap plastic that comes affixed to your new refrigerator, and it’s the roll of material used to cover and protect the surface of fabricated parts, especially in the automotive industry. And it’s used extensively by manufacturers of metal and plastic sheets. They are also scratch proof and help reduce the penetration of sunlight and UV rays.
To ensure you get the right protective film for you applications make sure and ask these questions.
Once affixed to a clean, dry surface, protective film effectively prevent “damage” to that surface. Although incredibly versatile, use the wrong protective film for the job and you’ll jeopardize both your timeline and the always dreaded budget overages.
Here are the most common challenges we have found during close to 45 years of working with tape and surface protection film.
Poor Surface Adhesion. If the film peels off too easily there are multiple things that could have caused it:
Debonding. If the film actually separates from the adhesive it leaves a residue on the surface. Adhesive removal is remedied with a clean cloth dipped in an appropriate amount of organic solvent such as ethanol or acetate. Care should be taken during this step so as not to create an additional cosmetic problem to the protected surface upon removal.
Edge Lift. This occurs when ends of the protective film begin to lift off the surface. Common in metal protection where composite protective film is used, it happens especially with aluminum as compared to steel. Again, the right film for the job makes the difference.
The Film Cannot Be Removed. The most common reason for this problem is the quality of the pressure-sensitive adhesive. Beware of manufacturers who have not mastered the production of this very specialized adhesive technology. Some have only tweaked ordinary adhesives by making some improvements to existing formulations — with disastrous consequences.
Another reason why you’d have difficulty removing the film could be an overexposure to sunlight. This is why the UV rating of the film and the determination of how long you need it to adhere is an essential pre-installation determination.
Ghosting. One of the primary objectives of any construction project is to make it a seamless transition, where literally no evidence is left behind. When visual blemishes are apparent on what were supposed to be protected surfaces, the main cause of this “ghosting” is due to residue build up left behind from the markers, cleaners, solvents previously used to clean surfaces. These can be removed with care and diluted solvents.
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