List: This may sound trivial but ,I used the double metholdof installing one of the head studs. I was wondering is there is a right way to use the double nuts.
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One: screw the first nut until it reaches the end of the threaded area and then screw the second nut until it stops against the first nut.
OR
Two: screw the first nut 2/3 of the way down the threaded area and then screw the second nut hand tight against the first. Then, using two wrenches, tighten the two nuts against one another: one wrench turning clockwise and the other, counterclockwise
I am using stainless steel nuts
The Devil is in the details.
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Lou
Was Double Nut Method, Now Head Stud Installation.
OK, so I will use the Double Nut method with the nuts in the center of the threads.
So let’s move to the next step. As I related previously, I drained the coolant out of the block and blew the block thread out with compressed air. Despite that, when I lower a stick down into what I think is the threaded area of the block and withdraw it, there is about 1” of viscous yellow material on the stick. I assume this was too viscous to have drained out via gravity, or maybe it’s actually inside the threaded area that forms a small cup for the stud bottom.
I can think of one or two ways to deal with this. I could knock out the freeze plugs and wipe the threaded area clean, or stick something down the block holes (A giant Q-Tip) to absorb the moisture. I could also use a hack saw to make a vertical cut in the head stud threads so any moisture could squeeze out of the female threaded area (someone already suggested this). Or use compressed air at a low pressure move the moisture out of the female threads. .
Any opinions?
Thanks
Lou
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It’s important not only to get moisture out, Lou - you have to ensure that there is no solid residue left either…
Mangling the studs with a hacksaw will not eliminate solid residue - and removing the freeze plugs, while efficacious, seems a bit overkill at this stage. Compressed air, and some bottom scraping should be enough…
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However, the real proof of the pudding is that the relevant studs protrude equally when inserted - fairly easily checked. And it’s unlikely that none of the studs are seated…
As for double nutting; there is no point in tightening the studs beyond seating. As you torque up the head nuts, everything moves in the clockwise direction…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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I do the second. The only reason is that if you make it tight against the end of the threading, and it slips just a bit as it often does as you are snugging the two together or tightening the stud in place, then when you remove the outer nut, the first one on can be bound against the end of the threading which then requires you to grasp the stud with pliers or something so you can get that nut off without loosening the stud again.
List:
I think the majority felt that putting the two nuts together in the middle of the thread was somewhat preferable to running them down to the bottom of the thread.
Done that way, one can grasp each nut with a wrench and tighten against one another and loosen, for removal, when done, without affecting the final location of the stud.
I think you could also use the same process for nuts driven to the end of the thread.
Lou
The nuts of the Ball Screws are categorized by the ball circulation method into the return-pipe type,the deflector type and end the cap type. These three nut types are described as follows.
In addition to the circulation methods, the Ball Screws are categorized also by the preloading method.
A spacer is inserted between two nuts to provide a preload.
More compact than the double-nut method, the off set preloading provides a preload by changing the groove pitch of the nut without using a spacer.
With this method, a spring structure is installed almost in the middle of the nut, and it provides a preload by changing the groove pitch in the middle of the nut.
The Simple-Nut Ball Screw is an off set preload type in which a phase is provided in the middle of a single ball screw nut, and an axial clearance is set at a below-zero value (under a preload).
The Simple-Nut Ball Screw has a more compact structure and allows smoother motion than the conventional double-nut type (spacer inserted between two nuts).
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