Hi there
I am new to woodworking - turning, inlay work, boxes both bandsaw and turned. My new lathe, a Nova DVR Saturn arrives next week along with the bandsaw, so its time to get the "shop" really the single car garage, ready to use with power, ease of access and the compressor.
I would really like some guidance with the compressor as I know nothing about except that I have used one to run a nail gun a couple of times on a deck build.
My setup is that I am using the garage for the storing of wood, the lathe, bandsaw, table saw, router, planer/thicknesser and the drum sander at all in the garage where I plan to do all the cutting whether by hand or machine, sanding, turning etc and the assembling of large items.
I will use my spare room in the house for assembly of my boxes (small ones), glue and clamping, cutting and preparation including softening off veneers and vacuum pressing.
I need a compressor line i the garage to run the Mirka ROS and the nail/staple guns. I need the compressor line in the spare room for the vacuum press and for blowing the wood dust from any surface to be veneered or for epoxy. I intend to make a vacuum pressing table and run a
These are the specs for the compressor: Tank Capacity: 22L, Power: Watts / 1.25kW, Max Outlet Pressure: 115psi / 8 bar, Built-In Regulator for Adjustable Outlet Pressure, Exhaust Flow: 87 Litres per Minute / 3.07CFM, Displacement: 236L/Min
Motor RPM: R/Min, Motor Rating: 2HP, Current: 6.5A, Noise Volume: 72dB, Tank Drain Tap, Tank Pressure Gauge, Outlet Pressure Gauge. Outlet Connection: Nitto Quick Release Coupler, Built-In Circuit Overload Protection - Push Button Reset Switch. Standard 240V 50Hz 10A Single Phase NZ Plug Will this be sufficient to run this vacuum system? The vacuum specs are: Pro VM2FS $585 (vacuum source only
- .75 - 1 H.P. Compressor, 2
- C.F.M @ 85 P.S.I.
- 1.6 C.F.M of Vacuum Flow. Finally, is there any issue with having a "T" joint (I don't know the technical name!) taking 1 length of compressor tube to the garage and one to the spare room. I think I would need something like a tape to turn the flow on or off for each side. Would there be any problems with a system that has part of its output blocked? Would it be too loud to have it running inside a house? What kind of piping should I use to deliver the air to the various places I need it? Would PVC be enough? Or would I need something like copper? Is there any fire risk from using the compressor inside? Are there any issues that I have not mentioned? Any and all sensible thoughts aew welcome, Thanks
What are the CFM, or L/min requirement of your sander(s)? The compressor specs you listed will not run any of the sanders on Mirko's website. The compressor will run the nail guns, on a limited basis, but if you get going really fast, it won't keep up.
You will need a fairly large compressor to run a pneumatic sander for any appreciable length of time. Mirko's current line of pneumatic sanders are all running in the 15-18CFM range, or 475 to 515 l/min. The compressor you need will probably be a minimum, 5hp, upright compressor, with a 60, or 80 gallon tank. Sanders take a lot of air.
It may cheaper and easier for you to get an electric Mirko sander and run the rest of the stuff off a smaller compressor. You're other needs could be met with a small portable compressor.
To me,when it comes to air compressors size does matter but budget limits myself.Get the best,biggest your budget will allow.As your wwing grows so will your air needs(if you ever get into spray finishing).If I had a do over,I would have mounted mine outside in its own little shed to cut down on the noise.I would run 3/4 black pipe(sensitive subject) to every where I though I would need air and make arrangements for future growth.If you do it right the first time you will never have to mess with it again,more time for wwing
Off the wall thoughts:You know all these companys that manufacture air compressors figures out how to try and make them cheaper but not alot of time spent on trying to make them better.What I'm saying is instead of having a monster pump/motor to make 22cfms maybe do the same thing with smaller motor and pump.I purchase my first air compressor back in the early 70's but the design is the same today.Yes I know they now make a screw compressors but who can affored that.
RapidAir sells kits and components to plumb compressed air through a building. I used their 1/2" plastic pipe and fittings to put eight compessed air outlets in my shop. I don't think the RapidAir kits work with vacuum.
PVC is not recommended for compressed air due to the potential hazard of it shattering after it ages and perhaps bumped. There are many stories of such incidents, some here on SMC. PVC is supposed to be fine for distributing vacuum since the pressures are low compared to shop compressed air. Recommended for compressed air is copper and black iron pipe.
You can put as many "t"s in the line as you want. One good practice is to make a big loop for you air line and add drops as needed - this lets air come from both directions to effectively increase your piping size.
I built a sound-insulated closet to house my air compressor and cyclone dust collector. They are both 5hp and very LOUD.
I use the 1/2" RapidAir piping to run random orbital sanders, at the lathe, nail guns, outside when shearing llamas, for various metal-working tasks, and to drive powerful impact wrenches when working on the tractor and bobcat. I personally think it's best to get a larger tank and bigger motor if possible - it's hard to tell from the specs on any compressor how long you can use it with a specific tool in practice until you have to wait until it builds up pressure. The 60-gal 5hp compressor is basically "use it for anything and never have to wait on it". When using pancake compressors around the farm I do a lot of waiting.
I wonder if the horsepower ratings for the compressor you mention are inflated. Some manufacturer's lie outright, some use trickery. This chart: http://www.sprecherschuh.com/downloa...chart_v206.pdf Just be careful to get what you pay for!
I don't understand from your description - is the VM2FS both a compressor and vacuum pump? I'd go with a separate vacuum pump. If you haven't seen it the Joe Woodworker site has kits, plans, vacuum pumps, and vacuum presses and clamps - this is about building the vacuum source: https://www.veneersupplies.com/produ...Press-Kit.html I have one of these in progress, but slowly!
JKJ
My understanding is a two stage is needed if you want over 90 PSI at full flow. The first stage goes to about 50PSi then the other cylinder take sit to the higher pressure. If you only need 50 PSI or less a single stage pump may be more efficient.
Watch out for horsepower claims. Sears lost a lawsuit years ago for claiming too much power. Most modern big box compressor motor nameplates do not list HP. Check the amps and volts to estimate HP. A 120 volt motor is limited to about 1.5 hp. Similar limit for a oil-less compressor.
So you need a 240 volt, 2 stage compressor to supply a sander is a good rule of thumb.
I bought a rebuilt Quincy 2 cylinder 2 stage pump for $200 on craigs list. The pump weighs more then most box store compressors/motor/tank setups. I run it with a real 5hp motor and the rpm is low enough to not be obnoxious. The fly wheel weighs 30 pounds by itself! I know because I could not lift the pump to the top of the 60 gallon tank with the flywheel attached. With the flywheel off I could just lift it in several stages by myself. If I ever have to take it down I will have to rig it somehow. Not really any room for two people in the shop corner where it sits. I really wish,now, that I had taken the time to mount the pump and motor separately on the ground.
Bill
An air compressor is a piece of equipment driven by an electric, diesel or gas motor that takes ambient air and delivers it into a closed system (system piping and/or tank) resulting in increase of air pressure until the pressure reaches the users desired limit. The stored energy contained in the compressed air is held until called into use for a variety of applications.
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With so many options, sizes and designs, it can be difficult to decide what air compressor is right for you. There are general questions to ask yourself and few guidelines to follow when choosing the right compressor.
Continue reading to find some helpful information that can take you through the process of owning the right air compressor that perfectly fits your requirement.
The air compressor grade determines the capacity and application.
Consumer grade: Consumer grade compressors are for small garage workshop and can handle small demands; handling a single tool at time. These are typically a reciprocating type compressor, either single or two stage.
Contractor grade: Contractor grade compressors are portable compressors that are used in enabling small tools on work sites such as nail guns or impact wrenches. These are typically a two stage reciprocating type compressor.
Commercial grade: Commercial grade compressors are larger and provide a steady supply of compressed air to power multiple tools or pieces of equipment. Most commonly, they are a lubricated rotary screw type that are typically driven by a diesel engine and are widely used in the construction field.
Industrial grade: Industrial grade compressors are electric motor driven and are stationed in a compressor room or power house of a facility. They are designed to produce all the compressed air required by a facility including pneumatic driven equipment, pneumatic cylinders, valves, blowoff and conveying. Small to medium applications are rotary screw type compressors, oil free or lubricated. Large applications can be either rotary screw or centrifugal type compressors.
An air compressors specification depends upon pressure (PSI), and flow (CFM). This determines the size of the compressor in horsepower (HP) or kilowatt (kW).
PSI- Pounds per Square inch, is the amount of force that an air compressor delivers.
CFM- Cubic Feet per Minute, is the measurement of the amount of atmospheric air that an air compressor can compress and deliver at a rated pressure level.
Gas Engine Driven Compressor: Gas engine driven compressors are typically smaller horsepower ranges (Consumer or Contractor grade). They have higher running and maintenance costs than electrical or diesel.
Diesel Air Compressor: Diesel air compressors are used in areas where power is not available, or in extreme regions (Commercial grade). Their robust nature and lower fuel cost compensates for the higher initial cost.
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Electric Air Compressors – To ensure air compressors run efficiently after installation, power available should match the power requirements of the machine. Consumer or Contractor electric compressors can operate on 115 or 230-volt single phase power – typically no larger than 10 HP. Larger electric compressors for Industrial applications run on 200, 230 or 460-volt three phase power.
If the size of the compressor has been determined, the answer to the below questions will help in selecting the right type compressor. The two most popular options of the type of compressor available are piston compressor and rotary screw compressor.
The most cost effective air compressor is the Piston Air compressor. They are relatively easy to maintain and require minimum investment. However, they have a 50% duty cycle therefore they can only be used intermittently. This type of compressor is much louder than other options. They often require additional dryers with high inlet temperature capabilities due to the high discharge temperatures. They are used in automotive service industry and small manufacturing facilities.
A rotary screw air compressor is designed for a 100% continuous duty cycle. They are fluid cooled and have a range of control options to ensure the most efficient operation based on the application. A standard dryer can be paired with the compressor and can be used in application where dry/clean air is a requirement. They are available in various HP ranges. They are highly recommended for applications that need continuous volume of air
Apart from the several parameters such as size, CFM rating and pressure that helps in deciding the compressor, you also have to choose between an oil-free and oil-lubricated system.
The kind of application where the compressor is intended to operate determines the choice. Each type offers advantages for certain applications. It is important to know the differences between the two types and consider certain parameters when choosing the type that is right for your specific needs.
The compression chambers are injected with oil. This helps in dissipating the heat and keeping the system cool. The fluid acts like a lubricant to reduce the friction between the parts that move and also acts as a seal to ensure efficiency in production of compressed air. Lubricated compressors are also much quieter than oil free.
With good maintenance, oil lubricated compressors have a longer life. Keeping in mind that regular change of oil extends the life of the compressor. Maintenance costs need to be factored into the total cost of ownership.
Oil lubricated compressors are robust, efficient in providing compressed air to continuous applications.
Oil free compressors do not have lubricant / oil in the compression chamber. Oil free units are used where compressed air quality must be exceptional with no trace of oil. Oil free compressors have a significantly higher up front cost. Without lubricant to remove the heat of compression, the compressors typically run at much higher temperatures. Without lubricant to seal the rotors or cylinders the efficiency will be reduced, meaning you need more power to produce the same capacity than a lubricated unit. Typically, oil free are used in the following applications:
There are many brands available, however choosing a manufacturer with a good warranty and service network to support their product can help you take care of your investment and protect you from failures in the future.
Pattons, your Compressed Air Partner will be able to deliver quality products, assist with your design selection of the right compressor, either through an audit, or engineered estimations based on your end use equipment. Pattons has qualified technicians, parts inventory and preventive maintenance programs designed to suit your specific needs to help ensure you get the longest compressor service life.
If you have any further questions, we welcome you to contact Pattons for a non-obligatory discussion.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of High Pressure Air Compressor. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.