My wife recently took our Toyota Camry (4 cylinder) in to the dealer for a routine oil change. There are about 101,700 miles on the car. After the oil change, they mentioned to my wife that the water pump was leaking and that the drive belt was discolored. They quoted a price of about $560 although it is unclear if that’s for replacing both the drive belt and the water pump or just one or the other.
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There are no water spots under the car after it’s left parked in a concrete garage overnight. I don’t hear any kind of grinding noise when the engine is running. The car does not overheat. The coolant is not low. The air conditioner works fine.
Obviously I don’t want to drive around with a faulty water pump but I haven’t seen any symptoms that it is failing. Are they suggesting the replacement because I’m at the 100,000 mark? Or are there other symptoms I should look out for?
If I do need to take some action, do I have to replace the water pump or can they just tighten things up so there is no leak? Also, if all they say is there is discoloration on the drive belt, do I need to replace both the drive belt and the water pump or can I just replace the water pump?
Kind of clueless so help me if you can!
If the water pump shows any signs of leaking or seepage, replace it. The picture above probably shows more seepage than you have, but if it’s leaking it’s broken and needs replacing. It’s not going to get better.
@Rod Knox, great link and photo showing what Toyota factory coolant looks like as the water pump starts to seep. For some reason the Toyota coolant tends to hang around and look like that “pink cauliflower” you see in the picture. Old green tends to just stain and dissipate.
BTW, a little off-topic, are you familiar with Luscious Garage, where you linked the photo from? Carolyn and her crew do a fine job of finding a “niche”, a woman-owned and operated independent garage. You’ll also notice the labor rate is $120/hour.
The view seen in my link is the water pump with the belt and pump pulley removed, @jesmed. An experienced mechanic will usually look around under a car while working on it and from underneath, with a good light, a great many problems can be recognized before they become catastrophes and I am assuming the mechanic was able to see the weep hole “scab” and recommend scheduling the repair rather than wait until a wrecker was necessary. From above, you will not be able to see the water pump weep hole. Wit a mechanic’s mirror and a good service light you might possibly be able to look under the pulley from above but it will be difficult.
If your water pump were leaking, you would notice a drop in the coolant level in your overflow tank every couple of days. Check the overflow tank in the morning before starting up your car, if the level is the same every morning, you do not have a leak.
It is not in your best interest to keep taking your car to the dealer for simple maintenance items like oil changes. The dealer has a vested interest in finding things wrong with your car in order to get you into the showroom. The service writer gets a small commission if he gets a customer into the showroom who buys a new car because the old one is “worn out”.
Find a good local independent mechanic and use him faithfully for all your maintenance needs. If the independent begins to find a lot of things wrong that you didn’t notice, find a different independent.
@db, “At $120/hr you may as well pay the dealer . . .”
Oh, I don’t know…the garage in question is in San Francisco and they have tooling and equipment equal to or better than the dealership. $120 for an independent shop in that city is probably fair for that market.
I’m south of Seattle and for an indy shop a bargain at $90. Couple of other indys in the area have broken the $100/hr mark. Chevy dealer is $109, Toyota is $120, Cadillac $135. I wouldn’t be surprised to see dealer rates in the SF area to be significantly higher.
I have friends selling a house in Oakland. sq. ft. on a sq. ft. lot, $329,000. That same house in Seattle might only bring $200,000. Everything is higher in the Bay Area.
There’s a small hole in the upper casing on the water pump in my Corolla, and when the waterpump fails, the first symptom is some fluid appearing in that hole. Its quite apparent, and easy to see. & that’s the reason for that hole I think, an early warning system. When water appears there, it usually doesn’t take long for the water pump to completely fail. If the water pump is just leaking at the seal where it bolts to the engine casing, it may be possible to just tighten the hold down bolts, but I’ve never experienced that situation before, and it is unlikely those bolts would have come loose, unless the water pump has been recently replaced. If this is the original water pump, replace it. And if it were my car, the timing belt – if this car has one — should be replaced too if it is within 30 K miles of being due. In the meantime, OP should monitor the coolant level daily, and monitor the coolant temp gauge on the dash board frequently when driving. Any signs of overheating, pull over and have the car towed to the shop.
As a 15 yr Toyota tech, I can tell you it’s leaking from the weep hole. A small amount of coolant is permitted to leak or weep to lubricate the shaft. Per our warranty guidelines, a small seepage is tolerable. If you notice pink spray on the hood and a reservoir that’s going low, it’s time to replace. Eventually, whether or not the pump is weeping, it’s going to go bad. Toyota water pumps aren’t the greatest. It’s not a bad job. We get 2.5 hours at 104/hr to replace pump , belt, and bleed out the cooling system. If its not making a grinding noise, you still have some time. But be ready to be proactive and have it replaced. When the bearings go kaput, your belt pops, no charging, and no engine cooling. I’ve seen them bad at 40k, so over 100k is pretty good. You can press your luck if $ is tight, but if it were me, I’d take it to a Toyota dealer, where you’ll get a good quality part (compared to an aftermarket one) and gave it done right. And be on your way for another 100k. Cheers.
db, not to get defensive here, but I am standing firmly on my previous statement. If the OP checks his coolant every morning and over the course of a few days or weeks, the level does not change, then he does NOT have a leak. The engine does not produces its own coolant.
I hate to see someone sucked into an unneeded repair, or into buying a new car before it is really needed. I just had to replace a water pump on my Saturn a few weeks ago. Even before I could see any moisture around the water pump, I noticed that the coolant level was dropping in the reservoir about once a week. It took me about three weeks to finely find the leaking water pump. It had 257k miles on it.
When it comes to your car’s efficient functioning, many small parts will often join forces to help it run. One of the components that is considered critical in the vehicle is the water pump.
An important part of the cooling system that is usually neglected is the water pump. This part controls the car’s temperature and ensures the engine is performing optimally.
This blog post covers all the aspects of the water pump. You will learn how it works, why it is crucial for your car, and what issues you should not ignore.
The water pump is an essential part of your car’s cooling system. Its main role is to pump water, antifreeze, and other fluids around the engine block, the tubes, and the radiator so that the engine will not overheat.
In particular, when the water pump fails to operate efficiently, your engine will overheat, which is not only damaging but also expensive to fix. That’s why you should always keep up with your car’s cooling system service.
How does a water pump help to pump water? Basically, the water pump is a mechanical device that is used to circulate water in the cooling system. Here’s a step-by-step breakdown of how it works
The water pump is often connected to the crankshaft of the car’s engine through a serpentine belt or a timing belt. This means that while the engine is running, so is the water pump to keep the water circulating.
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Within the water pump, there is an impeller—a rotating element that helps raise the pressure and circulation rate of the coolant. When the engine is in motion, the impeller rotates, generating centrifugal force.
The spinning impeller draws coolant from the radiator and directs it through the passages in the engine block.
The coolant takes heat from the engine and circulates it to the radiator to cool down before the coolant brings the heat back to the engine again.
This process is continuous whenever the engine is on and guarantees that it is running at a stable and safe temperature.
As mentioned above, the first sign of a faulty water pump is a leakage of the coolant, which is one of the most frequent signs.
If you observe a pool of coolant on the ground, which may be green, orange, or pink, it may be a sign of a leaking water pump. This leak can be attributed to a worn-out seal or gasket inside the pump chamber.
When you identify a leak, it is advisable to fix it as soon as possible to avoid further complications. With the engine off, begin by inspecting the coolant level and then adding more if it is low.
Check the surrounding floor, walls, and ceiling of the water pump for signs of leakage. The problem is usually fixed by replacing the seal or gasket that has failed to perform its function well.
However, if the pump itself is damaged, then it could be that the whole thing has to be replaced. A mechanic can then determine the cause of the leak and then repair it so as not to worsen the situation on the engine.
If your engine has been hotter than usual for several drives, the culprit could be a faulty water pump.
This can occur if the pump’s impeller is destroyed or if the pump is not circulating the coolant properly.
First, look into the coolant tank and see whether the coolant is adequate. Check the water pump and the radiator and look for damages.
If the impeller is bad or if the pump is not moving coolant as it should, then it may be time to replace the water pump.
Also, various parts of the cooling system must be examined to ensure that there is no blockage that may hinder the flow of the coolant.
To avoid the problem of overheating, it is recommended that the water pump be serviced and replaced as often as needed.
A high-pitched whining or grinding noise coming from the front of your engine could be a sign of a failing water pump. This noise is usually caused by a worn-out bearing inside the pump.
If you hear a whining or grinding noise, inspect the water pump and its bearings. Worn bearings often require the entire water pump to be replaced.
Ensure the serpentine or timing belt driving the pump is in good condition and properly tensioned.
Ignoring these noises can lead to complete water pump failure and more extensive engine damage, so address the issue promptly.
If you see steam coming from your radiator, it could be a sign that your engine is overheating due to a malfunctioning water pump.
Steam indicates that the coolant is not circulating properly, causing it to boil over.
Immediately turn off the engine and allow it to cool down before opening the hood.
Check the coolant level and top it off if needed. Inspect the water pump for leaks or damage. If the pump isn’t functioning correctly, replace it.
Additionally, ensure there are no blockages in the radiator or cooling system that could hinder coolant flow. Regularly servicing the cooling system can prevent such issues.
The water pump is a vital component of your car’s cooling system, and its proper functioning is essential for the health of your engine.
By understanding how it works and being aware of common problems, you can take proactive steps to maintain your water pump and prevent costly repairs.
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